Central Vacuum Systems
M & S Intercom Systems
NuTone Intercom Systems

FAQ

What is a central vacuum system?

A central vacuum system is a vacuum system for the whole house.    The vacuum unit includes the motor and dirt collection can and is generally located in a remote area such as a basement, garage or utility room.    Inlets are located throughout the house to enable reaching any area to be cleaned with a hose that is generally 30 feet long.    The inlets are connected to the vacuum unit with PVC pipe.    Cleaning accessories vary and generally include a hose, wands, rotating brush for carpet, attachments and storage devices for the hose and attachments.

What are the benefits of a central vacuum system?

There are many benefits.    Central vacuums are much more powerful than portable vacuums and will extract more dirt.    They improve indoor air quality because all of the dirt is conveyed out of the living area to a sealed container.    The "dirty air" can be exhausted to the outside.    They are less physically demanding because the operator does not have to push the vacuum motor and canister, only a lightweight hose and cleaning attachment.    Central vacuum systems have a longer life and can increase the resale value of the house.

When should a central vacuum be installed in a house under construction?

The rough-in of the inlets and pipes should be done around the same time as the electrical rough-in.    The unit is hung, inlet plates installed and all connections made just before the house is completed.

Can a central vacuum be installed in an existing house?

A central vacuum can be installed in virtually any house.    The easiest houses are single story with basements or open attics.    In multiple story houses, a way to get the pipe from the first floor to second floor and possibly attic must be found.    A chase running from the basement to the attic is the best option.    Return ducts are another possibility if local building codes permit this.    Sometimes it is possible to run the pipe in the corners of closets or along the garage wall.    The last alternative is to cut a small section of drywall to drill the holes and run the pipe.

What tools are required to install a central vacuum system?

A heavy-duty drill, preferably a right angle drill and bit that is at least 2 1/2" are necessary to drill the holes for the pipe.    A tool to cut the pipe is needed.    We offer a pipe cutter which makes a perfectly straight, smooth cut; see part number 13505.    A hack saw can also be used.    Other tools include straight-slot and Phillips screw drivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, drill, knife and hammer.

How do I lay out the system?

First, the inlets should be located.    Use a 30 foot piece of string to simulate a vacuum hose and determine where the inlets need to be located to clean all areas.    In existing houses especially, consideration should be given to the ease of locating an inlet in the selected location.    Once the inlets are located, they need to be connected to the vacuum unit using two-inch vacuum pipe.    The length of pipe used to connect a given inlet to the vacuum unit should be as short as possible.    Air flow in an upward direction should be avoided to the extent possible.    Turns in the pipe should be gradual and as few as possible.    If the system will be exhausted, the vacuum unit should be located on an outside wall as close to the exhaust point as is possible.

Where should the vacuum unit be located?

Ideally, the unit should be located in a basement (if there is one), on an outside wall, and in a position which minimizes the pipe run.    The next best location is a garage, again on an outside wall and in a position that minimizes the pipe run.    Otherwise, the unit can be located in a utility room or closet on the lower level of the house.    If this location is chosen, use of a unit with a noise-reduction feature is recommended.

What size unit should I buy?

The power required of the unit is dependent upon the longest pipe run, adjusted for turns on that run.    Most manufacturers do not have conversion from pipe run to a given unit.    Instead, they typically rate units based on the square footage of a house, and sometimes the number of inlets.    Our experience is that these ratings are generally overstated.    Factors which will increase the need for more power include the number of inlets, the number and type of elbows, the use of sweep inlets, the presence and density of carpet, the length of exhaust run, and the hose length and diameter.    We can assist you with this decision.

How do I figure out what installation materials to buy?

You have two options.    The easiest is to purchase one of our installation kits - click on "Central Vac Installation Materials" on our home page.    The amount of pipe, elbows and other materials included in these kits is based on the number of inlets that will be installed.    This works well in new construction and straightforward existing construction.    If you have an unusual installation or have laid out your installation ahead of time, the materials can be determined fairly easily.    If you fax a sketch to us, we can work up a list of materials for you.

Are the pipe and elbows the same as used for plumbing?

No.    Central vacuum pipe and fittings are based on a two-inch outside pipe diameter, which is different than plumbing pipe.    Also, the inside of the pipe and elbows is a slick, smooth surface which allows the dirt to flow with less resistance.

Will the pipe get clogged?

Preventing clogs is largely dependent on the installation.    The use of short radius 90's behind the inlets is one preventive measure.    Most items vacuumed into the system that would ultimately cause a clog will not go past the short 90.    At this point, it is easy to remove the obstruction simply by opening the inlet door.    Other installation measures that will prevent clogs include using long sweep 90's throughout the rest of the system, installing sweep tees in the correct direction, minimizing upward air flow, and using a vacuum unit that has adequate power.    Otherwise, taking care during vacuuming will prevent clogs.    One item that should not be picked up with a central vacuum is pine needles.    Clogs rarely occur in a system that has been installed correctly.

Which hose and accessories should I purchase?

First, decide on the type of rotating brush if you have carpet.    An electric brush is better if there is a lot of carpet or the carpet is plush.    A turbo brush is ideal if there is little carpet, it is low pile or Berber, or it is impractical to provide electrical power for an electric brush.    Second, determine which type of inlets that you have.    Nutone, Vacuflo and some other brands accept only certain hoses.    Electric inlets have two pin holes about 1/2" apart that are either just above or just below the inlet opening.    E-mail or call us with this information as well as other specific needs that you have, and we will be happy to recommend an accessory kit for you.

If I have a certain brand of vacuum unit, do I need to buy that brand of accessories?

Accessories such as hoses and powerheads are more dependent on the type of inlets that you have, your cleaning needs and your existing accessories if you are replacing some of the components.    It is generally best to e-mail or call us with this information, and we can insure that you purchase components which will work with your system.

I need a new hose.    How do I know which one to order?

Hoses often do not have a model number or brand name.    First, determine if you have an electric hose, which is characterized by an electric cord or receptacle on both ends of the hose.    If so, determine if you have a direct connect hose (two small pins on end that fits into vacuum inlet) or a pigtail hose (six-foot cord extending from end of hose).    Determine if you have a switch that controls the vacuum, powerhead or both. Determine if you have a crushproof (springs back when squeezed) hose or wire-reinforced (cannot be easily squeezed) hose.    These answers will enable us to determine which electric hose that you need.

Second, if you don't have an electric hose, determine if you have a low voltage hose, which is characterized by a switch that controls the vacuum.    Next, determine if you have a Vacuflo or Nutone (name on handle).    Then determine if the hose is crushproof or wire-reinforced as explained above.    These answers will enable us to determine which low voltage hose that you need.

Third, if you don't have either an electric or low voltage hose, then you have a straight suction hose.    Determine the brand of inlet that you have.    Determine if you have a button at the wand end of the hose and if so, the distance from the middle of the button to the end of the curved wand.    Determine if you have a crushproof or wire-reinforced hose.    These answers will enable us to determine which straight suction hose that you need.

What is the difference between an electric and turbo powerhead?

Electric powerheads have a separate electric motor in the powerhead that turns the rollerbrush.   They are the preferred choice for pile carpet.    They must be used with an electric hose that is connected to an electric inlet, or has a six-foot cord that extends from the inlet end of the hose and is plugged into an electric outlet.    They can also be used with a non-electric hose that has a 35-foot cord strapped to it.

A turbo power nozzle is propelled by the air stream that is generated by the vacuum unit.  They are an excellent choice when there is little carpet in the house, the carpet is Berber, commercial or oriental, or it is impractical to provide electric power to an electric powerhead.    If a turbo head is chosen, we recommend using a cyclonic vacuum unit with no bag or filter, or an oversized non-cyclonic unit.

What is the difference between wire-reinforced and crushproof hoses?

Wire-reinforced hoses are as the name implies - the hose shape is supported by wound wire.    The advantage of this style is that they will resist kinking.    The disadvantages are they are heavy, will crush over time, and are not as smooth inside, reducing air flow.    Crushproof hoses are molded with no supporting wire.    They retain their shape, even if run over by a car.    They are lightweight and have a smooth inside surface.    The only drawback is that they will kink more easily than the wire-reinforced hose.

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